Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Naples Here We Come!

The night before we left for Naples, we were reading our guide books about the city and the neighbourhood we'd be living in. Words like "filthy", "dangerous", "notorious", and "sinister" were used to describe the 'Quartieri Spangoli'. Those words stopped us dead in our tracks. This was the neighbourhood we'd be living in for a week?

Molly googled the question: "Is Naples dangerous?"

These were the responses posted by other travellers.
  • One girl had her camera stolen WHILE SHE WAS TAKING A PICTURE!
  • Incidents with the Comorra (Mafia) were not uncommon.
  • One young couple was so scared staying in the Spanish Quarter that they went to bed at 6pm.
  • Drivers would rear-end you, then steal your car when you got out of your vehicle to inspect the damage.
  • 'Centaurs' (thieves on scooters) would ride up behind you and snatch your bag off your shoulder.
  • If the streets got congested, motor-bikes would ride up onto the sidewalk.
I honestly felt scared. I was a little perturbed with Joe who had obviously NOT done his homework when making these rental arrangements. Molly worked her way into a massive migraine headache and took to her bed.

When we arrived in the port city of Naples, our hearts sank. It was beyond filthy. Cars drove with no regard to road signs or lines. It was hot. It was noisy.

We found a hotel parking lot to leave our car in, and as Joe handed the keys over to the attendant he was seriously wondering if he would ever see the car again.

We then had to walk 8 or 10 blocks lugging our suitcases behind us. If that didn't scream "ROB US!" what did?

We met Lucia and she walked with us to our apartment. It was bare and spartan. I asked her (with the help of my trusty Italian phrase book) "Naples? Dangerous?" She responded that she had lived here for 10 years and nothing bad had ever happened to her. "But," she warned using her hands, "Keep your bag under tightly under your arm. You will be okay."

We have now been here 3 days and we absolutely LOVE this city! The Spanish Quarter IS filthy, crowded, poor, noisy, hot, and crazy. But the people are friendly and welcoming.

Where else do you hear someone call out "Bella! Bella!" from their balcony as you head out for a day of sight-seeing?

Where else? Why, Naples of course.

2 comments:

  1. I am relieved to read this but please do us at home a huge favour and continue to stay safe! I am so thrilled that you are having a wonderful time!

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  2. I am so glad that you are having a great stay there and you didn't let the hype deter you. What a great adventure. Think of the memories... you are seeing a side of Naples that I bet a lot of people don't. hopefully the car will be there when you get there!

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