Sunday, August 7, 2011

Les Fleurs

It goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway) the French appreciate beauty. And one of the ways their appreciation is expressed is through flowers.


Honestly, I have never seen so many flowers in one country! Especially outside the big cities.


There is not a nook or cranny without a terra-cotta pot of geraniums adorning it.


There are flowers on windowsills, on bridge railings, on lamp posts. There are flowers on stone pillars, stone walls, stone steps. Everywhere you look there are flowers.


I've seen flowers growing in the most unlikeliest places. In car repair shops, bus stops, dead end alley ways.


Everywhere you look in this country, there are flowers.


I'd like to know (maybe I'll google it later) how many bedding plants are grown for French consumption?


Yet another thing I love about the French. They know beauty when they see it. And they surround themselves with it.

Saturday, August 6, 2011

Bourgogne = Burgundy

We have spent a wonderful week in Burgundy. We have driven from the south in Aze, to the centre in Beaune, and to the north in Vezelay. If you are a student of the grape, then Burgundy is the spot for you!

Burgundy is....





Charollais cows.





Grape vines.





Wine.





Fields and villages.





Chateaux.




And boeuf bourgognon.

I love Burgundy.

Friday, August 5, 2011

More About Pigeonniers

Okay, kids. I know lots of you spent last night tossing and turning because you were so intrigued by yesterday's French Fun Facts. Especially about the pigeonniers.

Well, guess what! I went INSIDE one today!

Joe and I drove to the tiny village of Epoisses this morning. We went in search of some speciality stinky cheese, but at the end of the day even Joe had to admit it was even too stinky for him. I mean really, a cheese that is 'smear ripened' with the bacteria of another cheese? No thanks.

Anyway, since the cheese didn't pan out, we decided to take a walk around the grand chateau in the middle of the village.

On the grounds was a HUGE pigeonnier!





We went inside and were surprised by what we saw! There were over 3,000 roosting boxes lining the walls of the building. The pigeons would fly in through the holes near the roof, then hunker down in one of the boxes.





There was a hand-hewn rickety ladder that went from the floor to the ceiling. It was attached to a centre pole that rotated on its axis.





A farm hand would climb up the ladder and remove the pigeon droppings from each box. He would push the ladder around the pigeonnier as he worked.

Not only did the lord of the manner use the guano on his own fields, he sold it to surrounding farms.

Can you imagine the noise and the smell in that building when it was operational? YUCK!

Well there you have it, kids. More than you ever wanted to know about pigeonniers.

You're welcome.

Location:Epoisses, France

Thursday, August 4, 2011

More French Fun Facts

I swear I am 'googling' something every day I am in France. I am always so curious about the things I see and hear. This is what I've learned lately...


1) Pigeonniers were very important to France's farmers in the Middle Ages. I thought they were built to house the pigeons that were to be eaten. Nope! The pigeons were kept for their poop! The guano was an excellent fertilizer for the crops. Some people had pigeonniers in the roof of their house; others had them built onto the side of their barn. The really wealthy land owners had free-standing pigeonniers built. They were built on stone pillars to keep predatory animals out. See the caps on top of the pillars? That was to prevent rats from climbing into the pigeonniers as they couldn't negotiate around them. Fascinating, I know!


2) The steep slate roofs all had air vents built into them. The air circulation allowed lichen to grow between the stones making the roof waterproof!


3) There is archaeological evidence that grape vines have been grown in the Burgundy area for over 2,000 years.


4). There are over 37,000 communes in France. Many have fewer than 1,000 residents living in them. Each of those communes has a mayor. That's a heckuva lot of bureaucracy! Not to mention red tape.


5) I was talking to a primary school teacher from Marseilles today and she was telling me about the school system in France. French students (up to the age of 10) and their teachers attend school Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday. They get 8 weeks of summer vacation, 2 weeks off in November, another 2 week holiday at Christmas, a FURTHER 2 weeks in February, and then a 2 week Spring Break. I'm requesting a transfer to France immediately.


6) Many times the outside of a home will look quite shabby. The plaster will be crumbling and the shutters haven't been painted since before the revolution. I've often wondered why some French people don't "keep up with the Joneses". It's because of the tax system! Taxation officers go around assessing houses from the outside. The poorer the house looks, the less tax the home owner has to pay! I'm sure if you were to enter any one of these homes, you'd be amazed at how beautiful it was on the inside.


7) No matter what, French women wear fancy footwear. Even if one walks with crutches, it is best to wear high heels!

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Looks Can Be Deceiving

As we were getting ready to leave the beautiful village of Aze and 'Les Portails Blues', Joe did another search on Trip Advisor for a chambres d'hotes in Beaune. Beaune was our next destination on our Burgundy wine tour.

He found good reviews about 'Chez Marie' and contacted them. Yes, they had room. But the only accommodation they could offer us was the annex. We took it, thinking that the annex was better than nothing. It sounded like some sort of attic room.

It was a beautiful drive up to Beaune. Sunny skies, chateaux, cows, and crops, as far as the eye could see. We even spotted a few ancient standing stones in the middle of farmers' fields!

We followed our GPS' instructions to get to Chez Marie. We were a little surprised when we pulled up to our destination. The street was non-descript. It was deserted. The train rumbled along the tracks just one short block away. And we were sleeping in their annex.





We rang the bell and Monsieur came to the door. He spoke a bit of English and was very welcoming. We walked through a passage towards his garden.


It was beautiful! We walked further and saw a cottage at the back of the garden.



Monsieur said, "Here is where you will stay." Really? The cottage was the annex? We get this whole thing to ourselves? I had to stifle a little squeal.




We have a spacious sitting room, 2 bedrooms, a bathroom, a small kitchen, with patio furniture outside on a terrace.




We ate breakfast in Monsieur's dining room. A French couple, who are touring the area on bicycles, joined us.




From the street I would never have guessed that this little sanctuary was behind those doors. Looks can certainly be deceiving.

Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Les Portails Bleus

Before Joe and I left the Lot, he went on-line looking for a place for us to stay for a couple of nights as we wound our way up through wine country. He found so many glowing reviews of this B&B on Trip Advisor, that he quickly booked us in to 'Les Portails Bleus'.


If you are looking for the warmest, friendliest, most generous and hard-working English couple, don't look for them in England. They aren't there. Linda and Steve are busy running their Chambres D'Hotes in Burgundy.

Their two dogs, Austin and Dusti, are the official greeters, barking madly as soon as they hear your car outside the gates. Austin's tail never stops wagging.





Upon our arrival, Linda brought tea to refresh us after our long drive.


Our room was beautiful, up at the top of the house with lovely views of the vineyards.


Linda and Steve not only provide breakfast for their guests, but will cook a delicious dinner if you ask them to. We asked. Twice. The first night we ate with two lovely families from Sweden and the second night we shared the dinner table with a lively family from London. And as an added bonus, our hosts joined us!


Joe and I explored the surrounding towns and villages for two days, sampled some delicious wines along the way, and enjoyed the incredible beauty and history of the area.


The 'guard geese' from across the road are a hoot. They honk fiercely at every passer-by and car. That makes for a lot of guarding. And honking.


Linda makes delicious 'puddings' from the eggs she collects from her hens who live in the backyard.


If you are looking for a fantastic place to stay in Burgundy, look no further. You've found it at 'Les Portails Bleus'.

Thank you Linda and Steve for a fabulous two days. I wished you lived in Vancouver! I know we'd be great friends.


www.burgundyblueholidays.com

Monday, August 1, 2011

One More Story From The Lot Valley

I had seen the posters and flyers throughout the neighbouring villages advertising the 'Pomarede en Fete' for July 30th. Aperitifs, salads, grilled lamb, cabecou cheese, vin rouge, and desserts were on the menu. Ever the tour director I thought, "This will be a perfect night to celebrate our month in the Lot Valley!"

Joe called the phone number on the bottom of the poster to make reservations. Because we all know what happens when one doesn't make reservations when they are 'obligatoire'. We didn't want to be disappointed again.

The lovely woman on the telephone asked Joe if we wanted to sit with English-speaking people or with the French. Joe replied, "Please sit us with the locals."

We arrived in Pomarede at 8:30pm. We walked down to the churchyard and there in typical country fashion were long rows of tables and benches. Colorful pennants and strings of lights were strung overhead in the trees.


The place was packed! Everyone knew each other, double cheek kisses smacked the air. Joe and I felt conspicuous, like the outsiders we were. We stood awkwardly on the periphery of the crowd.

I said to Joe, "We should have said we wanted to sit with English speaking people."

Joe said, "Nanc, we ARE the English speaking people here tonight."

When Joe went to pay for our tickets, the woman told us we were sitting at table A. We looked over and saw that table A was at the edge of the churchyard, away from all the action. We were a little discouraged.

We took our seats and waited for the fete to begin.


We didn't have to wait long.

A group of seven men and women joined us. The compulsory 'bon soirs' were exchanged. Not one of them spoke word of English. Not one syllable. I thought to myself, "This is going to be a long night."

But then the woman sitting next to me started talking to us. Joe and I did our best to hold up our end of the conversation, but things were getting lost in translation. I asked for a pen and began to scribble words down on the paper tablecloth. Between writing on the table and playing charades, we began to communicate with each other. Everyone wanted their turn with the pen and a lively exchanged of ideas ensued.


I told them that my ancestor, Pierre Parent, emigrated from Normandy to Quebec in the mid-1600s. That was it! I WAS IN THE FOLD! A woman at the end of the table said, "We are family!"

Then an extraordinary thing happened. The woman sitting next to me, the one who initiated the original conversation, introduced herself by name. I almost fell off of my chair. In the five years I have been visiting this country no French person has ever told me their first name. It is always Madame or Monsieur. Always. No exceptions. Until now.

Marie-Anne and I were BFFs for the rest of the evening.


Our table was a lively one. The plastic jugs of teeth-staining, black Cahors wine were emptied at an alarming rate. The husbands who were shy at the beginning of the evening, now became animated. I found that the more wine I drank, the more fluent I became! We had lots of laughs.


Before we knew it, it was well after midnight! And since we were driving to Burgundy the next morning, we had to get to bed. We said our good-byes, kissed everyone twice on the cheeks, and thanked them for a great evening.

As we were walking back to the car Joe said, "Aren't you glad we didn't sit next to English speaking people tonight?"


Yes I was.



Location:La Goulette,Azé,France