American Southwest Vacation (Part 3 of 4) Canyon de Chelly

Canyon de Chelly photo by Edward S. Curtis 1904

A Squamish friend recommended Joe and I visit the Canyon de Chelly (pronounced 'de Shay') in the northeastern corner of Arizona.  Melissa said she enjoyed this canyon even more than the Grand Canyon.  We said, "Let's do it!"

We left the glowing red rocks of Sedona for the flat lands and open skies of Navajo Territory.

We ran into some powerful rain storms on our way north.  Our windshield wipers couldn't take the water away fast enough.  We pretty much had to stop the car until the rain storm passed overhead.

We arrived in the town of Chinle and booked ourselves into a Best Western Motel.  Joe said, "Go look out the bathroom window.  Things are a little different here than they were in Sedona."  We definitely were not in Kansas anymore, Dorothy.

We saw a flyer in the motel lobby advertising a moonlight walk in the canyon that night from 7:00pm - 10:00pm.  Perfect timing!  We quickly grabbed a sandwich from Subway and made our way to the designated meeting place.

We met our guide, Kelvin, and a brother/sister duo from Austria.  We all hopped into Kelvin's truck and he drove us to Tunnel Lookout.  (To hike down to the bottom of the canyon, one must be with an accredited guide.  There is only one hike, White House Trail, that people can travel unescorted.)

I was so busy taking pictures I had a hard time keeping up with the group.

Kelvin was an excellent guide.  He told us many interesting things about the canyon and its history.  Kelvin is one of 85 families who own land on the canyon floor and many people continue to live there today.

Being the only ones on the canyon floor while the sun set was truly magical.  Kelvin talked about the healing powers of the canyon and told us that many Navajo come to this sacred place to pray.

We walked along the muddy river bed.  It felt as if we were walking on the beach at the ocean.

Kelvin pointed out petroglyphs along the way.  This rock carving of the flute player, Kokopelli, dates back well over 1,000 years (except the graffiti in the bottom right hand corner) and was done by the cave-dwelling Anasazi people.  We were so close we could touch them, but didn't.

More petroglyphs

We found ourselves a spot on the fine, white sand and waited for the moon to rise.  As we sat, Kelvin told us many Navajo stories and legends.  It was incredibly relaxing to listen to Kelvin's voice, clicking bats, chirping birds, buzzing insects and croaking frogs.  Nature's lullaby!

The moon finally rose around 9:30pm.  We sat and basked in her light until it got too cold and buggy to sit any longer.  We strolled out of the canyon to our vehicles, bid our new Austrian friends good night, and drove Kelvin back to his truck.  What a special, special night.

Early the next morning, we jumped in the car and drove back to the canyon.  Our first stop was the White House Trail.  Again, its beauty was astounding.

White House ruins

After an hour of walking, we reached the canyon floor and the 1,000 year old 'White House' ruins of the Anasazi.  Simply amazing.

On the return hike to the canyon rim, I was very proud of how we marched back up the trail without stopping.  Such fitness freaks.

The rest of the morning was spent stopping at each of the 8 lookouts and marvelling at the views below.

We stood for quite a while at this lookout and watched the eagle soar on the thermal updrafts.  It was so eerily quiet that I felt like I was in some sort of a vacuum.  We could not hear a thing.  Nothing.  There was only profound silence.

Spider Rock

I loved this.

See the little houses and the farm way down at the bottom?

More cave dwellings

When we were in Sedona we learned about the local vortexes.  Here is what they are according to an official website: 

"Vortexes are created, not by wind or water, but from spiralling spiritual energy. The vortexes are believed to be spiritual locations where the energy is right to facilitate prayer, meditation and healing. Vortex sites are believed to be locations having energy flow that exists on multiple dimensions. The energy of the vortexes interacts with a person’s inner self. It is not easily explained. Obviously it must be experienced."

So of course we were always asking each other as we hiked in Sedona, "Do you feel anything yet?"  "Nope.  Do you?"  "Nope."  "Do you think we will?"  "Nope."

Fast forward to the Canyon de Chelly.  

At one of the lookouts (shown above) Joe had gone on ahead.  And I, as usual, was lagging behind taking pictures.  I had just finished taking my millionth photo and was walking across a big expanse of flat rock when all of a sudden I felt incredibly serene.  I thought to myself, "Man, this vacation is really good for me.  I feel so relaxed."  But it began to feel more than just being relaxed.  I felt a wave of peacefulness wash over me.

I looked to where Joe was standing at the retaining wall.  As I walked toward him I actually felt as if I were floating.  I said, "You are going to think this is really weird, but I am feeling something here."  And then, seemingly from out of nowhere, a surge of emotion started in my belly, moved up through my chest and came pouring out of my eyes.  I cried like a baby.

Joe wrapped me in his arms until my tears subsided.  All I could say was, "Wow.  I have never, in my life, experienced anything like that."

Thank you, Melissa, for the recommendation to visit Canyon de Chelly.  We, too, enjoyed it far more than the Grand Canyon.